Craig Luebben vive entre los Mogotes del Valle de Viñales
Mon 08 Aug 2011 Yarobis Garcias 3 Comments
On the night of August 9, 2009, when we were done, Armando Menocal, Aníbal Fernández and me, a good climbing in Chief (Sguamish Canada), and we were commenting on the site of our experiences, when we received the tragic news of death of one of the great climbers and explorers of the world ... Craig Luebben.
Craig, who contacted Armando Menocal, he learned that Cuba had an exceptional limestone and has the potential to open the sport. I did not know was the sheer quality of this stone and the history embodied their first ascents. Opening up sectors and classic routes in the Valley of Viñales as "Cuba Libre", installed in February 1999 with George Bracksieck. "Mister Mogote" with Cameron Cruz, Echazábal Vitalio, Harper and Charles Go Pinelo in April 1999. They opened the sector "Costanera" in the Vinales Valley and the classic "Long Pompito" (one of the world's top 10 sports 6b) Have a Cigar 8a +, all of different lengths. A simple example of what has been permanently carved into the rock of the Sierra of the Organs.
He wrote his first article "Climbing on the Island of the Revolution," 95 Rock & Ice, in October 1999. In March 2002 he wrote "Viñales, Cuba." Rock & Ice 114. Coming every year more people have climbed, equip, to live your own adventure in the frills of Mogotes of Eden.
There is little that this reporter can tell them in such ephemeral words, as did Craig at the escalation in Cuba. First, like other Americans, was subject to the absurd laws between Cuba and the United States have been implemented in over 50 years. He traveled to the island illegally, they risked prosecution for his country and up to 10 years imprisonment, with a quarter million dollar fine if she traveled to Cuba, as would Armando Menocal-equivalent to the penalty for stealing a U.S. bank. Second, it created a precedent in the history of climbing equipment donations to the largest of the Antilles. Together the group that initially traveled in 1999 promoted the idea that each foreign climber to visit the island to bring some material for the locals. This still remains today as almost a rule. What initially began as a token of gratitude to the land that opened his heart to share their explorations and experiences, has become a tradition and solidarity.
He had written to me in the June 2009 visit in December Viñales Valley to further open routes. Although he did not know personally, and had many references to his starts, his travels around the world, his books, photos and inventions to make a vertical path to the future.
In one of his last texts written for the book (A Guide to Climbing in Cuba) said: "The escalation in Cuba was like a dream for me, I've said many times, if only I could summarize my three decades of climbing the world, Cuba . occupy the first seat. I hope my daughter is old enough for Julia to come back and share with her the magic I found in this Caribbean paradise. "But his dream was interrupted by the fatal accident.
"Craig Luebben Hoy y Siempre." 6c / 5.11d, 20m. Is the name that I baptized one of my routes in the area equipped Dopico Vega, the September 21, 2009. Open with Lond life bolts, I wanted to remember it easily, but that will last forever his walk through the valley of the spell. Be it for our promotions and this line from Cuba and the world.